Drywall: Taping and Mudding - By: Lynn Solana

Below are the basic steps to any drywall taping job laid out in the manner that we usually approach a project.

Always mix mud throughly.

Always make sure all nails and/or screws are recessed slightly below the paper surface of the sheetrock

Spotting Nails and Screws Step 1. Using un-thinned but throughly mixed joint compound, get a small amount of mud on the knife and push into the small recess around the screw or nail, completely filling it.

Step 2. Holding the knife perpendicular to the wall, scrape the excess off. Be sure the recess is completely covered.

Step 3. Allow to dry and repeat coat twice.

Note: If, when wiping the excess, you can feel a slight snag, it means the nail or screw is not recessed enough. The recess should be slightly bigger than the head of the screw and only enough to slightly "dent" the paper layer of the sheetrock.

Taping Beveled Seams and Butt Joints

For taping beveled seams (any place two manufactured ends of sheetrock meet) and butt joints (where cut ends of sheetrock meet), always thin the mud with water. Use enough water until the texture is thin enough to work with easily, but still thick enough to stay on your knife. About 2 cups of water per 5 gal. bucket of joint compound is good to start. Add a little more if needed.

Apply a smooth and even coat of mud to the seam using at least a 5" knife. Make sure there is enough mud under the tape to avoid air bubbles and also fill in any beveled joints.

Lightly lay tape on the joint, being sure the space between boards is covered, and cut tape with knife to within 1/2" of the length of the seam.

Starting at the middle of the tape, and holding the knife at about a 45 degree angle, use even pressure to draw the knife down tightly against the tape all the way to the end, while wiping the blade often. Repeat this same procedure on the other end of the tape, starting around the middle, from a spot where the tape is securely applied. The purpose is to squeeze out all the excess mud while tightly adhereing the tape to the sheetrock. Be sure there are no bumps or pockets of mud under the tape.

Allow all taped joints to completely dry before applying the next coat.

Taping Inside Angles

Precut and crease the paper tape the length of the joint. We do not recommend the metal-backed inside corners available, since they are notorious for improperly adhering and causing air pockets if the corner is not perfectly uniform. We prefer using plain paper tape.

Using a 4" or 5" knife, apply thinned mud on both sides of the corner in an even coat, making sure there are no bare spots. It should be at least 2" wide to be sure tape is applied properly.

Apply the pre-creased tape (creased side down) to the corner by hand, making sure to press the crease into the corner tightly.

Holding the tape at the top, draw the knife down each side of the corner while applying pressure to squeeze out mud from under the tape. Hold the knife firmly into the corner but try not to tear the paper tape. Repeat this procedure at the top of the corner starting at a spot where the tape is firmly applied.

Wipe any excess mud that has been squeezed from under the tape off of the wall.

Setting Corner Bead

Outside corners get a lot of wear and we highly recommend metal corner bead is used. First, make sure all joints and seams coming into the outside corner are taped and dry. Cut bead to length of corner and apply snugly using slightly recessed screws or nails about every 6 inches on both sides of the bead. Make sure that the bead is not twisted as you apply it.

This next step is best for the beginner to do only after all taping is dry. Using un-thinned mud, apply an even coat to both sides of the corner about 5 or 6 inches wide, being sure to fill in the recesses along the bead and not scraping off too much mud. We use an 8" knife for this. This area is quite a bit lower than the sheetrock surface and the purpose is to build it up here.

After you have a thick even coat on both sides of the bead, use the 8" knife to draw down the mud while using the outside corner of the bead as a guide for your knife. Don’t worry about small scratches and imperfections in this coat as you will catch them in later applications.

To "feather" the outside edge of mud, hold the 8" knife slightly twisted so that only the outside edge of the knife is being used to apply pressure. Draw it down the coat of mud to remove build-up on the outside edge while being careful not to take off too much mud from the corner of the wall. Remember, the main purpose is to fill the recess in a smooth coat.

Allow this first coat of mud to completely dry (usually around 24 hours) before starting second coat.

The same procedure as above is used for windows and archways, cutting bead to properlength of corners.

Applying a Second (Bed) Coat to Flat Taped Areas

Again using at least an 8" knife and un-thinned mud, apply a second or "bed" coat smoothly and evenly to seams and joints. To "feather" the outside edge of mud, hold the 8" knife slightly twisted so that only the outside edge of the knife is being used to apply pressure. Draw it down the coat of mud to remove build-up on the outside edge while being careful not to take off the built up area.

Note: Seams where manufactured edges of the sheetrock meet will be beveled and this recess should be completely filled. Cut edges of sheetrock or butt joints need wider coats of mud to level the surface of the wall. This can be accomplished by using a wider knife (10" or 12"), or by applying wider coats after the bed coat dries. Usually, the mud on a butt joint should be at least 18 inches wide.

Bedding Inside Corner Angles

Inside corners only need one coat of mud after the tape is dry. Using un-thinned mud, and a 4" or 5" knife, it’s probably best for newbies to coat one side of the angle at a time, allow to completely dry, then coat the other side. Again feathering the outside edge, as above.

Third (Skim) Coat to Flat Taped Seams and Joints

After the bed coat is completely dry, sand all areas lightly removing all excess mud and ridges.

Using mud thinned slightly with water, and at least an 8" knife, again apply a coat to seams and joints, being sure to completely cover the dried mud. This time you should not need to build up the low areas much so more mud can be scraped off the seam. This is accomplished by holding the knife more at a 90 degree angle. The purpose of this coat is to fill in any scratches and imperfections. Feather the edges again.

Applying Second and Final Coat to Corner Bead

Corner bead usually only requires 2 coats of joint compound. First it’s recommended that you run the knife blade along the very edge of the corner to remove any small dried bits of mud. These will get into the fresh mud and cause excess scratching. Sand dried coat especially around ridged edges.

Again, using at least an 8" knife and slightly thinned mud, apply a second even coat to the corner bead. Remove excess mud by again holding the knife more at a 90 degree angle. Feather outside edges.

After complete drying, sand all areas and touch up any scratches and imperfections.

About the Author

Lynn Solana has been involved in the drywall profession for many years and has survived numerous home remodeling and building projects. From hiring contractors to working hands on, she has experienced the entire spectrum of home improvement. These tips are just among hundreds more that she shares on her website. If you have a remodeling project involving drywall, check out Drywall Finishing Tips now! http://www.drywallfinishingtips.com

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